How and when to restring my guitar?

When should I replace strings on my western guitar?

This, like so many guitar related questions, is a matter of strong and very different opinions. From: after each performance. Until: only if they break.

In all fairness: it does differ from guitar player to guitar player how often it is best to replace strings, but we don't recommend leaving them until they break. It's a bit like coffee: a freshly ground hot cup of Java is a lot tastier than cold coffee that's been sitting for a while. Freshly broken in strings just sound the best to our ears. That's why all the guitars we sell leave our store only after a proper setup with a new set of strings. When they need to be replaced, wil vary. If you have one guitar and you play it every day for a few hours, some strings will lose a lot of their magic within a week. If you own more guitars and you can spend fewer hours on the strings per guitar, they will last longer.

If you play a gig on stage and sweat a lot during a performance, then the best part of the strings will soon be gone. And to make it more diverse: it also matters which strings you use: coated strings last longer, but more on that later.

So, when do you have to replace them? Our advice: if a string starts to sound somewhat dull, and when it gets a bit more difficult to get and keep them in tune it is best to replace them.

What are the best strings?

Elixir!

No: D’Addario!

No way: Martin!!!

Ask this question to 10 guitarists and you will get 10 different answers AND they are all right. Why? Because every player is unique, just like every guitar. And with strings you can give a completely individual twist to the sound and playability of a guitar. That's why at TFOA we carry a awide range of strings. So the question is not: what are the best strings? The question is: which strings suit you and your guitar best? We see that many guitarists are quite ‘stay true’ when it comes to strings and always choose the same ones. Sounds logical, but our advice is still: try something different. It doesn't cost much, it does take some of your time, but afterwards new strings can really give you the feeling that your guitar has had a metamorphosis. 

For example, do you want a bright, distinctly more modern sound with a bit more treble? Try a set of Elixer. Looking for something darker, more earthy sound with more emphasis on the wood? A set of Retro by Martin might surprise you. Looking for balance? Santa Cruz strings are not the cheapest, but have many loyal fans because of that balanced tone. Want better playability? Try a set of ‘Flexible Core’ from Martin. In short: you can go either way with strings and we recommend you just try something different.

Should I buy Phosphor/Bronze, 80/20 or coated strings?

That really depends on your taste, because the material used determines the sound. We list the most important ones below. Just to give you some fresh ideas, we deliberately don't start with the best-selling strings, but instead we present to you:

Silk and steel

The Mellow-Fellow of guitar strings. You sacrifice some volume, but you get a very nice 'folky' sound in return. And lots of playability, because silk and steel strings are thinner.

Nickel/Copper

Martin calls this mix of metal 'monel' and incorporates it into the Retro strings. Wanna hear more Wood and less String? Try this.

Exclusief

Besides the above, there are many other variants, such as strings with Chrome: very smooth operators! If you want the most expensive strings out there, you buy Titanium. Pricey, but you don't have to break them in first to get rid of the initial harshness that almost all other strings have and they keep sounding beautiful for a long time. Very usefull in a studio-setting.

80/20 bronze

That 80/20 refers to its composition: 80 percent copper and 20 percent zinc. Actually, that's brass, but everyone calls it 'bronze'. These strings sound clear and pronounced, are affordable and wildly popular, they just don't last very long.

Phosphor Bronze

Sound warmer than 80/20 strings, due to its slightly different composition: 92 percent copper and 8 percent tin and a pinch of phosphorus so they rust less quickly. The ones from Gibson, for example, cost less than 6 euros and are definitely worth a try.

Coated 

To ensure that strings 'last up to four times longer', they get a thin layer of plastic: a coating. This has many additional advantages: they 'squeak' less when you slide over the strings and they are slightly softer on the fingertips. Many guitarists like that, but coated strings devides guitarists in lovers and haters. The haters say they feel a little too 'rubbery' and the sound can be a bit dull. They go one to say that the claim that they 'last four times longer' is something like a car that drives one in 25 kilometers to 1 liter in the showroom, but in real life never performs better than 1 in 17. They may last longer, but thát much longer... it really depends on so many factors.

It all comes down to tone and feeling with coated strings. That's why the strings makers don't keep improving their offerings, Maybe you have tried coated strings in the past and didn't like them: don't let that deter you from trying again. They're really getting better. Elixer,for example, started with the thicker polyweb coating, but now makes strings with the much thinner nanoweb. Many people like them better. Other manufacturers, such as D'Addario, go even further and, like Martin, now make coated strings where they manage to give them an even more natural feel.

What thickness or gauge should I choose for my guitarstrings?

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Extra Light – .010 .014 .023 .030 .039 .047 –  ‘ten’

Custom Light – .011 .015 .023 .032 .042 .052 –  ‘eleven’

Light – .012 .016 .025 .032 .042 .054 - et cetera

Medium – .013 .017 .026 .035 .045 .056

Heavy – .014 .018 .027 .039 .049 .059

Now you may be thinking: how much can one thousandth of an inch matter? The answer: a lot! You can feel the difference between .011 and 0.12 immediately. Firstly, which thickness best suits your guitar depends on the guitar model. The general rule is: the smaller the guitar, the thinner the strings. So on a kleine parlor one set of .10 will fit, on a dreadnought or Jumbo you can put .13 or .14.

Usually the guitar builder gives an advice which string gauge the guitar is setup for. Are you in doubt? Then we can always help, feel free to send an email. 

There is nothing wrong with deviating a bit from the guitarbuilders advice and trying a different gauge. In fact: we encourage you to do so, because thickness also has an impact on playability and playing style. Are you a strummer? Try thicker strings. Fingerstyle? Thinner strings can help bring out nuances? Do your hands get sore quickly? Also try thinner strings. 

If you're going to try something different, don't do so with big steps and pay extra attention if you go from 'thin' to 'thick'. The thicker the string, the higher the tension and the smaller models are not always made to handle that. If you choose to go thinner, strings may start buzzing. This can all be solved with a setup, during which we can usually easily adjust the guitar to the desired string thickness.

Do you often play in a different tuning? Lowden even made special DADGAD strings for that. 

What tools do I need when I'm going to replace strings.. ?

It can be done without tools, but a neck rest often comes in handy, pliers are handy for cutting the leftover ends and a ‘stringwinder’ gets you done a lot faster. D'Addario has combined both tools in one little device. Handy. We also really like Nomad's stringwinder. It does not have built-in pliers, but it is one that also fits twelve-string guitars and mandolins. A tuning device also comes in handy and is useful even after changing the strings.

Where do I cut a string?

Not too short, because your string needs some grip, and not too long either, because then you will keep on winding and winding. Some say this will also effect how your guitar stays in tune. The general rule is: secure the string-end at the bridge, pull the other end through the tuner, tightening the string. Now grab the string at the nut between thumb and index finger and pull it back just short of 2 frets . Then bend the string on the tuner and start winding. The string will then do about three winds around the tuner, which is what we are aiming for.

Help! I can't get my bridge pins out? 

In the first video of D'Addario you see an important tip: after loosening the strings, push the end of the string back into the body. This way you remove some pressure from the bridge pins on the bridge and the pins come out more easily. If this does not work, you can gently pop them up with pliers, but do so gently don't start prying. Do you have simple string winder? At the side of some of them, there sometimes is a handy notch. On a side-note, D'Addario also provides its own string-winder: D'addario Guitar Pro -Winder.